Monday, October 15, 2007

Rouen, Normandy

Saturday, I made my first trek outside of the Ile-de-France (basically Paris and its suburbs). I went to Rouen. It is in the province of Normandy. Although every region has its distinctness and its own character Normandy's was particularly charming and fascinating for me. The mark of Norman architecture is extensive use of wood (as well as stone). But, the use of wood as a primary piece of the composition in homes and other structures is unique in France. The rest of the culture follows suit in its charming uniqueness. This was the launching point of the Norman conquest of England in the middle of the 11th Century. And, until the end of the 100 years war, it would be disputed territory between the English and the French. Normandy's beaches are also, of course, famous as the site of the reconquest of France from Germany in WWII.
Rouen is home to many Churches, including the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Eglise St-Maclou and the Abbatiale St. Ouen. The Notre Dame de Rouen is most famous as the subject of many paintings by the impressionist Claude Monet. The Abby St. Ouen is famous as the spot where Joan of Arc was condemned as a heretic. However, realizing what a tragic mistake the Church had made, a Chapel was eventually made in Notre Dame Cathedral in remembrance of this most courageous of French Heroines. Oddly enough, King Richard I (Coeur de Lion) is also buried in the Notre Dame.
All this history is well preserved in this beautifully idyllic capital of Normandy. Even in the markets the people dress up in clothes from another era. Not being a usual attraction for visitors to France, in conjunction with joy seen on the booth owners faces, it would seem that the people dress up out of pure enjoyment and tradition. They sell the wares of their province--cider, sausages, canard, and caramel--with pride. One of my favorite scenes was a group of men ranging in age from 20 to 60 playing the French equivalent of Bocce ball in the garden next to the Abbey St. Ouen.
As you could probably tell, I was absolutely enthralled by this city. Most of the described above can be viewed in picture form by clicking the Rouen link on the right side of the blog.

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